[D] Exhausts, Vents, Grilles etc
(i) Vents at rear of MLG Bays
Looking at the Daco p125, detailing was added as this looks unrealistic. The
ducting/vent was formed from 0.25 & 0.5 card using a ‘former’. This was
shaped from scrap resin, so as to be the correct size/shape when 0.25 card was
formed around it. Strips of 0.5mm card were added to each side using CA (i) to
form seam (ii) retain shape. Resin former covered at joint side with sellotape,
so CA would not stick the two together. The 0.5 strips were short of end which
will come through fuselage.
Click on
image below to see larger image
(ii) Eduard PE mesh at rear upper
and lower fuselage. Fitted from the inside, using the tried and trusted SM No10
blade, scraping until translucent against a light. Card strips were applied
using CA, to avoid the risk of these coming off in the future.
Click on
image below to see larger image
(iii) APU Exhaust and Compartment
between MLG Bays
#1 Exhaust formed from 4.8 OD plastic tubing. Cut to ~37 deg, then elongated to
fit, using a thin Bic biro, after softening with microburner.
#2 Using panel line, outer edge reduced by 5 thou, using SM 10 blade, to receive
grille. Primed, ‘washed’ with thinned Citadel black ink. These paints apply
better if thinned with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), rather than water.
Detail highlighted using silver paint ‘rubbed-on’ using an angled toothpick.
#3 Grille cut from Eduard PE No.74 (Interior set 32510); equipment bay netting
provided in the CE cockpit set. I cut mesh to size by applying a masking tape
template to the mesh and cutting with surgical scissors, rather than Xuron PE
cutters. Cut so another piece could be obtained if needed, which is was! Grille
will be fitted after painting.
Click on
image below to see larger image
[E] Tailhook
To fit the tail hook at a later date for ease of painting etc, I made it
detachable. I fitted the housing before closing fuselage halves, so I could
exert the pressure required for a good fit.
Click on
image below to see larger image
[F] Centreline Pylon and Tank
I elected to 'simulate' weld seams of tank construction by restoring some
'panel lines' and filling with 0.3mm stetched sprue, then rubbing down
with 1000 W&D. To do this and restore detail on ordnance etc, I made
this scribing tool:
http://www.arcair.com/tnt1/101-200/tnt153_Scribing_Wolstenholme/tnt153.htm
#1 Pylon to fuselage and tank to pylon kit mounting points are inadequate.
Drilled for plastic rod.
#2 Pylon was not straight. This together with #3 & #4 gave a fit
problem of rear tank to fuselage (inset photo).
#3 There was a big gap (ref Daco p140) between the tank and pylon as a
result of the position of the ‘sway braces’. There are no ‘slots’
in D22/23, as there are in D10-17! Fortunately D22/23 was only held in by
the lugs, so removed using a 10 thou saw blade. Having straightened pylon
using steam/cold water, I cut ‘slots’ in D22/23 and refitted, to
receive F28.
#4 Rear tank fixing is incomplete and too short (inset photo), even when
#3 was done.
Click on
image below to see larger image
Photo below shows modified pylon and
new rear tank fixing (inset) from scrap resin and brass rod. (ref Daco p141).
Click on
image below to see larger image
IMPORTANT NOTE: Whilst
the above modification corrected the BIG gap between the tank and pylon, it
produced another (worse) problem which was not apparent until the tank was
fitted and the aircraft stood on its landing gear i.e. the upward angle and
position of the tank nose relative to the NLG is noticeably wrong. I compromised
by reverting to a bigger gap, tapering front to rear.
Both F28 removed and new F28 parts fitted with pieces of resin packing [#1] so
as to produce a gap of 1.5mm at #2 and 0.75mm at #3, between the tank and pylon.
Fairing pieces of triangular section from 1mm sq and 0.75mm sq fitted front [#4]
and rear [#5], respectively.
Click on
image below to see larger image
[G] Access Ladder (Reference
Daco p.22)
I opted not to use the Eduard PE treads. I preferred the stronger
structure using the kit parts and the ease of getting it square. The
ladder frame was attached to fuselage with masking tape, so that parts G21
and G46 would be set at the correct angles.
#1 Enlarged lightening holes.
#2 Beefed-up mounting stud with some brass rod; kit fixing is minimal.
#3 Cut slots for latches, but then noticed top slot too high;
filled/re-cut at lower position.
#4 Latches made from 0.5mm card.
#5 1.0mm rod used for 4th fixing point.
Click on
image below to see larger image
[H] Flare/Chaff Dispensers (Reference
Daco p.52)
Empty dispensers appear to be fitted when ‘live’ ones are not. I
drilled out all apertures to give more depth. By fixing 0.25card at the
back, it not only re-closed dispenser, but gave an adjustment so it was
not recessed.
Click on
image below to see larger image
[I] Gear Doors
Two aspects need some attention. Firstly the door hinges/fixing consists
of very small tabs. These will no doubt easily break off. Secondly, the
‘frosted’ finish to the insides which will show through when painted.
(i) NLG Bay
#1 Nose jack/strut door (J61) is incorrect, both in length and angle of
‘turn-in’ at bottom. The fit was perfect with door closed. However,
for gear extended, the door should turn under the axle, when viewed as
photo. Shortened length, increased angle and made cut-out at bottom of
door (Daco p51, 98).
#2 Fixing consists of very small tabs, but with quite large slots in the
bay. Tab hinges were removed and new ‘hinges’ formed from 0.5mm card
using a template. These provided increased gluing area and filled the
unsightly slots in the nose bay.
#3 For this FA18A build, kit part J20 required all detail to be removed
from inside, and the ‘panels’ filled on the outside(inset photo). Only
a single aerial is fitted at bottom centre of door. For the
recess/electrical connection I drilled and added copper wire.
#4 There should be a ‘lip’ to locate stbd door when closed. Thinned at
bottom with SM No.10 blade to receive 5 thou card. This is particularly
noticeable as it is painted red!
Click on
images below to see larger images
Note: On part J62, I removed the left
‘tab’ (upper of 2 when viewed as photo) for door J20 connection. This
looks a little more realistic than the kit provision.
Photo below shows ‘template’ for cutting hinges. A light score line
was made at 1.5mm width on 3.5mm width of 0.5mm card. Cuts at 150 deg
along red lines for angle and then cut to width gave ‘hinges slightly
over length. Hinges reduced to correct length/fit against bay after fixing
to doors.
Click on
images below to see larger images
(ii) MLG Bays
NOTE: For the forward gear door/hinges/actuator ‘setting’, the C/L
tank was temporarily held in place with masking tape. If the doors are set
‘too vertical’, the tank will not fit between the doors!
Hinge fixing again is minimal and the PE parts from both the Eduard and
Aires sets, whilst giving detail, do not greatly improve the fixing. I
used the Eduard parts as a guide to form new hinges from 3.5mm tube and
3.2mm square stock. Whilst not as detailed as the PE, these provided
better fixing. New actuator rods made from 0.5mm rod. The main doors
J23/24 were taped to the tank with a 0.5mm card spacer. The other doors
were located using pieces of card and masking tape, so hinges and actuator
rods were set correctly on doors.
Photo shows home-made device to cut narrow/square sections for hinges. No
free plugs for where the resin block originates!
Click on
image below to see larger image
#1 J23 and J24 are not correct on the
bottom forward edge. The corresponding areas of the gear bays need
filling. The ‘structural stiffening’ to inside door is not correct (Daco
p110). Removed using SM. No.10 blade etc and reformed using 0.25mm card.
#2 B3 and B4 required sanding for an even contour; NOT flat. The black
lines highlight the low areas on partial sanding.
#3 The edges of the door recesses were slightly rounded. Compare left and
right.
Click on
image below to see larger image
NOTE: Although not shown in above photo,
doors B6 should have a ‘lip’ for doors B3 to close against. See #4 NLG
Bay, above.
Photo below shows inboard gear doors ‘positioned’ with masking tape.
[J] Refuelling Probe and
Compartment.
The Black Box part is well detailed, but is spoiled by the webs between the
probe and the door.
#1 Grind a junior hacksaw blade, both in width and thickness (~0.3mm). Blade
thinned on both sides to remove offset of teeth, thereby preventing damage to
resin part.
#2 To remove webs, first broke through with a scriber, then used blade and
1200/2000 W&D. Applied CA to inside of door to strengthen and smooth. Inset
photo shows ‘before and after’
#3 To fit/secure probe in place, drilled rear for 1mm rod and correspondingly in
resin compartment.
Click on
image below to see larger image
The completed refuelling probe and
compartment. Pipes and wires added using pre-painted Cu wires.
#1 Circumferential groove here was filled; it is not on photos (Daco p13)
John
Click on
images below to see larger images
|