1/48 Airfix Dassault Super Etendard

by Mike Williams

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In the standard Airfix box you get four grey sprues, the two fuselage halves and one clear sprue, all rattling around and therefore the canopy parts are quite scratched.
The overall appearance is quite encouraging, nicely engraved panel lines, akin to the type on the Airfix 1/48 Buccaneer and Lightning.
The main area for concern is the rudimentary cockpit interior and instrument panel.  There is a four-piece ejection seat, but it’s woefully inadequate, even if there were a pilot to add to hide it with the canopy shut.  But seeing that the canopy is moulded in two pieces, why shut it?
Stores consist of an ECM pod x1, fuel tank x1 and Exocet missile x1.
The undercarriage could possibly benefit from some detailing in the way of brakes lines etc, but shape wise, it looks pretty good. The main wheels are very well moulded.
There is a seperately moulded arrestor hook and an attempt at a nose mounted refuelling (IFR) probe, which can also be displayed opened.
Other areas of note are a separate tail jet pipe, intake splitter plates, good undercarriage and airbrake retraction arms and various antenna and lumps 'n' bumps about the airframe.
So, overall there is the good basic shape and details to get a good model if built OOB with a pilot in the cockpit with the canopy shut, but this also means it is a good starting point for those who wish to add details like undercarriage bay and cockpit details.  Its a sound model overall and a dry fit of varying parts shows a good fit on most of the main airframe parts which certainly bodes well.
Markings options are for two machines, one of the French Navy from No.11 Flotille, Landivisiau, France, 1999 feat. 50th anniversary sqn markings and Kosovo mission markings, overall two tone grey upper camo with light grey undersides and a black nose cone.
The other option is for an Argentinean Navy machine from 2nd Escuadrilla, Puerto Belgrano, 1982 Falklands Conflict, with two Exocet mission markings.  Colours are Dark Sea Grey uppers with white undersides and black nose cone.
Decals are well printed, but of slightly out of register and possibly a bit on the thin side of opaque. There are extensive stencil data too on the decal sheet , which is a nice touch.
If nothing else the Neomega cockpit set should be added as this is the area that REALLY needs some help.
Included are resin parts for: -
  • MB Mk.IV Ejection seat
  • Cockpit tub
  • Rear panel
  • HUD
  • Instrument Panel
  • Rudder pedals
  • Seat rails
  • control column
  • port side panel
  • starboard side panel

This is a quantum improvement to the kit and really enhances the overall look, a dry fit shows that very little work will be needed, its almost literally plug 'n' play. It just needs careful painting. It all fits in the Airfix kit quite easily with only minor surgery needed to enable the instrument panel cockpit coaming/HUD unit to fit into the upper fuselage. The cockpit 'tub' fits easily and is more or less a direct replacement for the kit part. Only thing the ejection seat needs is a set of pull handles which are easily fashioned with fine wire.

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After this is all painted and installed, the horizontally split fuselage halves are joined together at which point you have to trap the lower parts of the main wings between them.  This is rather novel, but works well in practice. The top halves of the wings are then attached and there are separate flaps that allow you to model them in the deployed position.  One point though is that the flaps and leading edge slats on the Super Etendard are not hydraulically operated, so do not droop when they lose hydraulic pressure, they are mechanically operated by electric power used when the aircraft is powered up and therefore stay in their respective locked up positions on the ground.  A dry fit of these parts shows that if they are modelled in the lowered position, they would fit very well and look the part. Therefore they're only really useful if the model is depicted in flight or in take off/landing configuration. Though seeing that there is no pilot figure included in the kit, it does seem rather a strange option. Wing to fuselage joints needed a blend in with some correction fluid and sanding and the sides of the nose area either side of the cockpit opening needed a bit of filler to blend it in too.
The tailplanes are an interesting assembly, they comprise of a two-part tail unit and a two part, all moving tailplane.  When at rest, the Super Etendards all moving tailplanes tend to sit at a slightly up angle due to the relaxed controls.  I wanted to show this on my parked model, so some surgery was required.  First off the rearward facing ECM bullet fairing was moulded to the horizontal stabilisers, so this had to be removed and repositioned into the tail and filled and sanded to a flush fit. The next obstacle to overcome was the scuff plates which move with the stabilisers, these are moulded in on the vertical tail; so had to be removed. The problem here is that they need to be added to the stabilisers, so I put some masking tape over the areas to be removed and burnished them down to get the outline and the drew round the shape of the scuff plates with a fine permanent marker, removed the two pieces of tape and stuck them down on to a sheet of clear acetate was the correct thickness (Just handy then, that the Neomega package was the right size and thickness!) I then cut them out and superglued them to the stabilisers. To enable these to be fixed after painting. I drilled a fine hole through the tail and added some copper wire to one stabiliser and then drilled out a hole on the other stabiliser to allow the wire through the tail and connect the stabilisers together thus allowing them to move. I left off the main wingtips as these were to be modelled in the folded position and would ease the painting process when added later.
Next was some detailing to the supplied kit parts. The option for the extended IFR probe is a neat touch and is best used in the open position, as a dry fit showed, if you want it closed its not the best fit and would require some serious filling and sanding.  I used the kit supplied parts, but added some detailing using copper wire and plasticard and a dry fit showed that it  was sufficiently 'busied up'.
The airbrakes are nicely moulded and have the option to show them open or closed, I chose to show them open but on further inspection of photos of Super Etendards with deployed airbrakes, I noticed the holes that were moulded as depressions on the kits parts needed opening up, so out with the mini-drill and they were given a vastly improved look to the stock parts.
On to the undercarriage which is really very nice and probably one of the best parts of the kit straight from the box.  I assembled all parts then sprayed them in Alclad Aluminium followed by a wash of Tamiya X-19 Smoke which served to really enhance the details and add some depth.  Whilst I was at it, I sprayed the undercarriage bays and door interiors in the same way as well as the airbrake bays.
The canopy parts were in a terrible state, they were simply loose in the bag of sprues inside the box and were scratched all over as well as being horribly mismoulded on one side of the main canopy part which appeared to distort it.  After considering my options, I had to go with the kit supplied parts and use them, as I am not adept at home made vac-forming especially as I only had the one canopy to use as a master and didn't want to ruin it.  I couldn't find any aftermarket options in vacform either, so my only option was to grin and bear it.  I hadn't tried the Micromesh polishing system before, but had seen and heard great things about it.  So I invested in a set of Micromesh cloths which come in varying fine grades.  I started by sanding the whole canopy with 1500 grit wet or dry and copious amounts of water to try to get rid of the distorted mismould on the main canopy part.  I followed this using the Micromesh cloths starting with 3600 grade through to 12000 grade and three dips in Klear. This process thinned it somewhat which helped with the clarity.  I added some details to the inside of the canopy using fine wire and a rear view mirror using foil and some surplus etch bits n' bobs from the spares box.  Overall I was really pleased on how I managed to save the poor kit canopy as supplied and will definitely use the Micromesh system again.

The rest of the build was very straight forward and went according to the instructions.  So next I was on to the painting stages.  I opted for the Argentinean navy machine as a change from the French naval markings and as this year marks the 25th anniversary of the Falklands conflict....it seemed apt.
The lower fuselage was sprayed in Revell 301 Satin White enamel and then masked up completely to avoid any over spray from the Dark Sea Grey upper surfaces.  The upper surfaces were a bit of a problem to get the shade correct.  Most references show the upper surfaces as a blue/grey and most sources appear as Dark Sea Grey or Extra dark Sea Grey.  I went with my instinct and plumped for Humbrol 125 Dark Sea Grey with a few drops of Humbrol 25 Blue to add the apparent blue tinge.  The rudder and trailing edges of the taiplanes are painted in the blue and white colours of the Argentinean flag. These are supplied as decals in the kit, but applying these could prove problematic, so I opted to paint them on; the white was sprayed at the same time as the undersides and was masked up according to the instructions.  I then used Humbrol 48 Mediterranean Blue as it's almost an exact match to the blue that is on the decals.
I glossed up the model ready for decaling with a couple of coats of Klear and then applied the decals from the Airfix sheet.  Some were very slightly out of register and as there are no aftermarket sets available for this aircraft in Argentine markings, I really had no option but to press on with them.  They all went on with no problems at all, I tried out a new technique applying the decals with using Klear as a setting solution.  I put a small puddle of Klear where the decal is to be placed, soak the decal as per usual then apply it to the Klear.  After a minute or so I add another light coat of Klear over the decal, then left it alone to dry naturally.  After all the decals are applied in this manner, its best to let the Klear dry out and cure thoroughly by leaving it overnight.  When dry the Klear gives a protective coating to the model and decals allowing for the weathering processes as well as snuggling the decals into all the recessed details.
I used an oil wash of Payne’s Grey artists oil colour thinned with enamel thinners and washed it into the panel lines.  After a couple of hours, I then removed the excess wash with thinners dampened kitchen towel wiping backwards in the direction of the airflow.  The good thing about this is that the grey really makes the white undersides look grimy and dirty and the top less so due to the colour of the aircraft.  I added some gun smoke staining using good old Tamiya X-19 Smoke in the airbrush, topped off with a couple of coats of Humbrol MattCote and it was just left to add the open airbrakes, canopy and in flight refuelling probe before finally adding the undercarriage and the underwing stores.
The underwing stores were very nice straight from the box.  I painted the fuel tank in the same manner as the fuselage whilst I had the paint in the airbrush.  The Exocet was simply painted white with the grey stripe and black nose masked off and painted appropriately.  I added the decals to the Exocet and applied the same oil wash to deepen the details .
This was a really enjoyable build overall.  Although originally from a Heller mould, this kit seems a lot easier to find in an Airfix box, and with the new life being breathed into Airfix of late, here’s hoping it may see a re-release as it is a brilliant kit that just needs a bit of busying up and TLC to make a really nice replica of this significant cold war carrier-borne fighter bomber.  Its a pretty, yet purposeful looking aircraft to my eye, though they do say that beauty is in the eye of the beholder!

Mike

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Photos and text © by Mike Williams